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Fashion

Corsets, petticoats, trousers galore! Peel aside the layers that separate us from our Edwardian counterparts.

London & Paris Fashions: September 1902

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Teagown of lace and chiffon, 1902

It is distinctly depressing to contemplate the purchase of warm garments for cool days before the summer has left us; and though in September we may reasonably expect a. short spell of what is known as an Indian summer, we are obliged to take cool mornings and evenings into consideration.

September is essentially a holiday month, and we like, if possible, to wear out our summer clothes, and to utilise the garments we already possess, in order that we may save our allowances in view of indulging in autumn fashions next month. Fashions are always changing, and the powers that regulate La Mode could certainly not allow even the holiday month of the year to pass without introducing novelties of some kind; and though, perhaps, it is heresy to say so, I must warn you against September modes, which often die ere October dawns.

A neat shooting suit, 1902

September is an excellent month to replenish one’s wardrobe as far as “things unseen” are concerned—dressing-gowns, peignoirs, bed-jackets, nightdresses, and warm undergarments in general, taking into consideration that the summer is practically over.

Many smart dust-cloaks and travelling-wraps are made in the Empire and military styles. There is no doubt that the long coat, or what is properly known as the coat wrap, will play a great part in our autumnal fashions. Indeed, it has done so for some time past, and the alpaca dust-coats that did duty in the summer were all cut with a style and chic hitherto unknown in the world of wraps. The three-quarter sac is a favourite wrap, and there are many ways of treating it.

Serge sailor blouse, with felt ha

In the early part of the season it was distinctly Japanese, cut in the kimono shape, and finished with tassels. But for the autumn we want more sportsmanlike garments; therefore most of the tweed three-quarter length wraps have the sleeves cut right into the shoulder after the fashion of a man’s waterproof. Many of these are finished with a velvet collar, which I always think just saves a wrap of this description from being hard and unbecoming. Still, it is better to have a thing a little less becoming than incongruous where country clothes are concerned. Chiffony chiffons and flimsy, windblown garments look horribly out of place on an Irish bog or Scotch moor.

In Paris the bright tones of emerald green are giving place to a new pastel shade, which will come more into prominence as the autumn advances. On almost every frock there is a touch of black velvet—a pretty fashion of which the intelligent woman never seems to tire. This is particularly noticeable on hats, and millinery is more alluring than ever.

Coat with triple basque, 1902

Let me implore all women of fashion to leave their picture-hats and beflowered and befeathered millinery at home. Feathers will come in on a future occasion, but they are not suitable for the country in September. [T]here is a perfect craze for Panama hats. If you must have one, have a good one. I think that every woman who has passed her first youth should soften the brim of her hat by a touch of black velvet or a draping of lace. The chief point of the Panama is its lightness, and this is of great importance in travelling headgear.

Traveling coat, 1902

— Mrs. Eric Pritchard, The Lady’s Realm

The Well-Shod Edwardian Woman

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1913 shoe ad

It is to the influence of the motor-car and of the hobble skirt that we owe the marvellous array of delightfully pretty boots and shoes that now form an essential part of the well-dressed woman’s toilette.

The Parisienne, who has always made a particular point of clothing her feet daintily, favours boots as a rule, because of their neatness; while the Englishwoman is more prone to the wearing of shoes. When the hobble skirt, cut extraordinarily short, made its appearance it was realised that more particular attention than ever would be focussed upon the feet, and then it was that the boot and shoe makers put forth their best endeavours, and brought to light the beautiful specimens of footgear that are to be seen now.

Into the limbo of forgotten things has gone the vogue for humdrum black leather boots and shoes, and in every wardrobe are to be found coloured footgear, as well as daintily soft suede specimens of shoes and boots, in some instances allied to patent leather, and in others to calf.

Since the motor-car became perfected and reliable it has been the pleasure of luxury-loving women to wear black velvet shoes whilst driving, and even whilst walking a short distance upon clean pavements and in the park parterre. Following that vogue, has come one for brocaded satin and cashmere shoes which are to be fashionable for winter wear, though for wet walks and country mire they are changed for boots with leather vamps and suede or cloth uppers, and a heavier sole.

The salutary lesson has been well learned in modern times that it is not only right but possible to find comfortable foot leather. It was a startling revelation to the woman who pinched her feet to learn, as she did within recent years from the beauty specialists, that tight boots meant wrinkled faces, haggard eyes, and a miserable frame of mind. That this is so everyone realises, and the boot and shoe makers having been aroused to a sense of their duties, now produce their wares not only in a few sizes but in many and in every kind of shape, so that the foot in all its varieties of form can be fitted perfectly.

Still, it is customary in many families to have specially made footgear, and lasts are kept and bows and buckles form a finish. Heelless dancing sandals are much in favour, while suede, calf, kid, and patent leather are all utilised in modern footgear.

Every pastime, such as golf, skating, hockey, shooting, and climbing brings with it the necessity of special footgear. Upon the links women wear laced boots with high top pieces buttoned at one side; and for hockey and other sports similar sturdy footgear.

It is declared that much outdoor exercise has enlarged the size of the feet of the present generation of girls. This fact has not been without advantage to the makers of boots and shoes, who have been obliged to turn their attention to the production of elegance despite physical drawbacks, and thus it comes to pass that the footgear of the present day is quite as beautiful as that of other centuries, when boots and shoes were representative of the artistry of the craftsman.

No material seems too delicate for the modern shoemaker to handle. Cinderella’s glass slippers were scarcely less fragile than a pair made entirely of feathers of the tiniest possible size, in the graduated colours of the pheasant.

On the other hand, there are fur-edged and fur-lined boots, some with the buttonholes rimmed with fur, a new freak, and an amusing evidence of the present supremacy of fur. And in between these extremes there are myriads of patterns of fleeting or permanent interest; patterns with barred and buttoned fronts, patterns of the old Cavalier design, splendid with big buckles, and mules of quilted silk for the boudoir, with a little bunch of flowers instead of a bow decoration; overshoes for frosty days, and for the rain the ever-faithful galosh.

Every Woman’s Encyclopaedia (ca. 1911-1912)

The Clothes & The Man: Cricket

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England cricket team at Trent Bridge 1899
England cricket team at Trent Bridge 1899. Back row: Dick Barlow (umpire), Tom Hayward, George Hirst, Billy Gunn, J T Hearne (12th man), Bill Storer (wkt kpr), Bill Brockwell, V A Titchmarsh (umpire). Middle row: C B Fry, K S Ranjitsinhji, W G Grace (captain), Stanley Jackson. Front row: Wilfred Rhodes, Johnny Tyldesley.

William Gilbert “W. G.” Grace, considered by many to be the finest cricketer in history, contributed to Badminton Library of Sports and Pastimes Series with an article on the proper outfit for playing cricket.


Amongst cricketers generally opinions are many and divided as to this or that particular style of batting and bowling, but sound them upon the materials necessary for the outfit of a player, and you will find as a rule that perfect unanimity prevails. I have very seldom met with a cricketer of eminence who did not take the greatest care in the choice of a bat, pads, or gloves, or who did not impress upon his tailor the momentous importance of comfortably fitting clothes.

It is advisable for the sake of health and comfort that he should wear flannel or woollen material next his skin. It was no unusual sight ten or twenty years ago to find an eleven or county twenty-two dressed in all the colours of the rainbow. White is now usually worn, and it certainly looks better and cooler than any other colour. Shirts should be made to fit easily at the shoulders, but not too loosely. They should also be made large at the neck, as nothing is more disagreeable on a hot day than a shirt which is too small round the throat.

The best material for trousers is white flannel or cloth manufactured for the purpose; I like cloth the best, and nearly always have my trousers made of it, as it does not shrink so much in washing, and that is a very important consideration if you play right through the season, from May to September. Braces are not worn when playing cricket, so there is no need to have buttons for them on your trousers; a strap and buckle at the back should be used instead. The straps should be made so that the buckle can be removed when washing is necessary, as the buckle is very likely to stain and cut the trousers if left on. Do not forget loops at the side for scarf or belt to go through. Many of the old cricketers used to wear belts to keep their trousers from slipping down; I prefer a scarf, as it looks better and will grip quite as firmly, and you will not run the risk of being given out caught at the wickets through the handle of the bat coming in contact with the buckle of the belt.

Caps I think indispensable and preferable to any kind of hats, unless in very hot weather under a broiling sun, when some protection to the neck and back of the head is necessary. Most of the leading clubs and counties have a distinguishing colour of their own, and cricketers generally wear caps made of this colour.

Jackets and jerseys, or ‘sweaters.’ as they are commonly called, have their place in the outfit of a cricketer. A jacket on a hot day is useful when one is not actually engaged in the game; special attention should be given to its colour and pattern—very often it is made of the same flannel and shade as the cap, and when well chosen forms a very pleasing contrast to the white of the trousers. It can be used when fielding, but certainly not when batting or bowling. A jersey or sweater is preferable; it fits closer to the body, is much pleasanter, and in the field on a very cold day it helps to keep you warm, which is necessary for smartness and comfort. Always carry it in your bag, for a hot and fine morning may be followed by a cold or wet afternoon.

Experienced cricketers know that the most trying thing during the season is to keep the feet from getting sore and blistered; if they become so, much of the pleasure of the game is gone; therefore everyone who wishes to be comfortable should wear thick woollen socks, and always have an extra pair or two in the bag when travelling about. They are better made plain, not ribbed, and in natural colours they are more comfortable and do not mark the feet.

Cricket boots or shoes must be worn. To prevent slipping, it is necessary to wear spikes or nails in your boots or shoes. [S]pikes are very convenient, as when they wear down short they can be taken out and new ones easily put in. Nails are used by some cricketers; they are of different sizes and shapes, but large square-headed ones hold best. I should advise all cricketers who play often to have two pairs of boots, one with short spikes or nails which will hold and prevent slipping on a hard dry ground, and the other with longer spikes for a soft wet spongy ground.

Pads were not worn in the early days of cricket, and although I have seen a few first-class cricketers who never use them, at the present time I cannot call to mind anyone who plays without them. It is much safer to wear them, and when they are properly made and fit well they but slightly affect the freedom of the legs. The sense of confidence that comes from wearing them more than makes up for the slight loss of freedom. At first [pads] were fastened with pieces of tape wound round the leg and tied; then came india-rubber or elastic straps with hooks, and finally the present arrangement of buckle and strap, which meets with general approval. Some makers of the present day have them fastened by loops and a long strap lacing up the back of the leg. When choosing pads see that they are exactly your size and fit well, for large, heavy, and uncomfortable pads will do as much to tire you out in a long innings as hard hitting.

Batting gloves are of the highest importance, and players should accustom themselves to wear them as soon as they begin to play regular cricket, or very possibly they may have to use them on some important occasion and will feel all abroad when wearing them for the first time. Gloves are generally made of leather, with strips of thick fluted india-rubber sewn on the back to protect the fingers and hand. When purchasing gloves be careful to see that the rubber is stout enough to resist the blow when the ball hits your hand or fingers, or you might just as well do without gloves altogether. See that the rubber on the fingers of the right-hand glove comes down slightly over the tops of the fingers, and on the side of the thumb instead of the back. Just remember that the side of the thumb, and not the back of it, is towards the bowler when you are batting.

Gloves are generally fastened at the wrist by a band of elastic sewn on the top and buttoned. You can fasten them by a band of elastic without a button, or have the thumb separated from the body of the glove and sewn on to a piece of elastic, the other end of which is fastened to the back of the glove, and long enough to pass once round the wrist; this contrivance will keep the glove well in its place.

And now, having described the materials necessary to complete a cricketer’s outfit, the only thing required is a suitable bag in which to put them. One made of good leather is preferable to any other sort. Mind you have it large enough to hold everything you can possibly require. Have a strong lock and key for it, and straps as well. Have your name inscribed on the brass round the lock, and your initials painted in plain bold letters on the side. In the hurry of hand-shaking and bustle to catch a train the wrong bag has been often taken for want of this simple precaution.

Cricket (1890)


For more information on W.G. Grace, here’s a short documentary of his life and times: