At the outbreak of the Great War, the slim, athletic silhouette created by hobble skirt, V-neck blouse, Directoire style, and long corset was the height of modernism. The simplicity of ladies’ fashions fit into the wartime fabric restrictions, but in 1915, fashion bucked the system to introduce the “war crinoline.”
The war crinoline, as the fashion was quickly dubbed, was a very full calf-length skirt. Ladies went mad for this new style, even though they belied both shortages and restrictions, and prompted harsh denunciations because of their improper length and the excessive material they required. In response, fashion journalists promoted as “patriotic” and “practical,” citing the need brighten the spirits of the soldiers on leave, who would be reminded of the dinginess of war should they see women in cheerless, unfussy blouses and skirts. Despite the negative reactions, war crinolines retained their popularity, so much so that the favorite fashion slogan of 1916 was, “The war is long, but the skirts are short!”
The following year witnessed the abrupt decline of the war crinoline, and it was declared, “Fashion, under the hard lessons of the war, has sobered down; it is now correct, becoming, and practical.” Nevertheless, this brief fashion fad reflected the times, where people were still optimistic about the closeness of the war’s end, and it helped to sever fashion from its 19th century roots forever.
Paris Fashion: a Cultural History by Valerie Steele
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